Textiles

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Since its opening in 1845, The Glasgow School of Art has been connected to textile design and production.

During the 19th and early 20th centuries the School aimed to train local designers to produce patterns for the textile industry in Glasgow and the West of Scotland. In the 1890s, the School's embroidery department was established and soon became famous for the Glasgow Style pieces its staff and students produced (examples of such work are housed in the School's collections).

Jessie Newbery (1864-1948), the first head of this department, encouraged her students to study historical designs and textiles in order to understand different embroidery techniques and to use these items as a source of inspiration for the development of new original work. This teaching ethos continued to be used in the 20th century during which time the School also developed courses in textile printing, weave and knit.

A large number of the items in the School's collection are related to The Needlework Development Scheme (1934-1962). This scheme, sponsored by J & P Coats of Paisley, collected examples of embroidery from a variety of geographical and historical areas and made them available for use by educational institutions and embroidery groups. The scheme aimed to encouraging greater interest in needlework, and to improve the standard of embroidery techniques and designs. When the scheme ended, its collections were disseminated to a variety of organisations. The Glasgow School of Art received 125 items dating from 1652-1961 and originating from Britain, Europe and Asia.

Amongst other items of note in the School's collections are weave sample books from Donald Brothers Ltd, Dundee and examples of work by Kath Whyte (1909-1996), GSA's former Head of Embroidery, and her students.

Related publications:

Liz Arthur, Textile Treasures at the Glasgow School of Art;

Liz Arthur, The Unbroken Thread: A Century of Embroidery at Glasgow School of Art;

Thomasina Beck, Glasgow Girls: Women in Art and Design 1880-1920;

Kathleen Whyte, Design in Embroidery;

R.Oddy. Embroideries from Needlework development scheme;

J. Taylor, The Glasgow School of Embroidery in 'The Studio';

Needlework development scheme, Contemporary Embroideries;

Margaret Swanson, Needlecraft in School;

Margaret Swanson; Needle craft for Older Girls;

Margaret Swanson, Needle craft and Psychology;

Margaret Swanson and Ann Macbeth, Educational Needle craft.

Code

S2

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Textiles

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Textiles

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Textiles

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Records and textiles of the Needlework Development Scheme

  • NDS
  • Collection
  • 16th century to late 20th century

The collection consists of the surviving papers of the Needlework Development Scheme and over 100 examples of needlework. Of these examples, 28 are from Great Britain and 54 are examples of non-British work including examples from Greece, India, Norway, Sweden, Italy, Switzerland, Turkey and Bosnia. Items include ecclesiatical, domestic, costume, clothing and modern embroideries, tea cosies, funeral pall, clothing, lace work, wall hangings, samplers, linen work and cushion covers.

The surviving papers include a complete inventory of 1012 items that were part of the Needlework Development Scheme prior to its dispersal in 1961. This provides information on the original numbering scheme used for the needlework examples and also provides information on the provenance of each item, although this is not necessarily the creator of the item but the person from whom the item was received, as well as a description of the item itself. There is an inventory of the parts of the collection received by the Glasgow School of Art, insurance details concerning the collection and the correspondence of the Needlework Development Scheme, 1931-1941.

This material may contain sensitive information about individuals that is protected by the Data Protection Act. Until this material has been checked for sensitive information, it will not be available for researchers. Once this Data Protection work is complete the collection will be open for access, however any sensitive information will be closed and inaccessible for 75 years from the date of creation.

The Needlework Development Scheme

Textile work by GSA students and staff

  • TSW
  • Collection
  • 20th century

Textile work by Glasgow School of Art students and staff, including examples of woven textiles, some of which are most likely to be submissions for degree shows, while others seem to be submissions for an RSA Bursary Competition. Some creators are known, others are yet to be identified.

Blackwood, Jilli

Associated Works

This collection includes works by a number of artists, designers and architects associated with Charles Rennie Mackintosh, including his wife Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh, his sister-in-law Frances Macdonald MacNair and his sister-in-law's husband Herbert MacNair. These works include textiles, designs, and four volumes of a Glasgow School of Art student publication called The Magazine, as well as several individual watercolours now separated from the publication. The collection also includes a number of models for proposed architectural schemes by Mackintosh.

Mackintosh, Charles Rennie

Diploma show piece

Transparent organdie shadow work panel for a dress salon. Design features a dressmaker's dummy and vase with flowers. Previously displayed in a glass and wooden frame. Designed to be hung against a window.

Pollok, Meg

Audiovisual material

GSA Archives and Collections hold 216 audiovisual files, covering a range of topics and a wide date range. The audiovisual material has been created both by GSA and by external organisations, such as the BBC (television and radio), STV and ITV, other educational institutions and the Scottish Arts Council. Media in the collection include 16mm films, 35mm films, audio cassettes, audio CDs, CD Rom, DV cassette, DVD, Floppy disk, Reel to reel audios, Super 8 film, U-matic films, VHS tapes and Video 8 tapes. The audiovisual files pertain to topics including the GSA Fashion and Degree Shows, and Activities Week; students discussing their work; lectures by architects; presentations by, and interviews and conversations with, GSA alumni; centenary of the Mackintosh Building; Charles Rennie Mackintosh and Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh; plays; and documentaries on GSA. Please note that this material is not yet fully catalogued and therefore some items may not be accessible to researchers. As at August 2017, only the fashion show audiovisual material has been catalogued. The remaining uncatalogued material is therefore not currently accessible for researchers.

Webster, Chris

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