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Records and textiles of the Needlework Development Scheme
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Cushion cover

Scottish. Crewel work on natural linen. Basket of flowers motif, worked predominently in shades of green, orange and pink. Woollen fringe. Has label from G.S.A. Needlework Exhibition of 1916. Designed by Mrs. Newbery (Jessie Newbery). Worked by Mrs. Rowat (her aunt), Glasgow.

Newbery, Jessie Wylie

Mantel border

Scottish. Crewel work on natural linen. Art Noveau influence in curving stems of flowers. Predominantly green and pink. Has label of G.S.A. Needlework Exhibition of 1916. Designed by Mrs. Newbery (Jessie Newbery) and worked by Mrs. Rowat, Glasgow (her mother).

Newbery, Jessie Wylie

Correspondence of the Needlework Development Scheme in Scotland

The correspondence within the collection relates to the establishment and management of the Needlework Development in Scotland scheme than ran from 1934 until 1939 when the 1939-1945 World War lead to its suspension. It was re-established as the Needlework Development Scheme in 1945. Subjects covered within the correspondence include management issues; acquisition of needlework samples; finance; correspondence with J & P Coats Ltd who funded the scheme; minutes of meetings; aims and objectives of the scheme; exhibitions; loans of examples.

The Needlework Development Scheme

Correspondence file 4

Includes correspondence received and sent relating to: Scottish Women's Rural Institute exhibition; minutes of NDS permanent committee; meeting arrangements; exhibiting work at the Empire Exhibition, Bellahouston Park, Glasgow.

The Needlework Development Scheme

Correspondence file 5

Correspondence relating to the loan of Needlework Development in Scotland materials to schools and societies. Correspondents include: County Council of Dumbarton Education Committee 1938-1939; Corporation of Glasgow 1938-1939; County Council of the County of Lanark 1938-1939; Glasgow High School for Girls 1939; National Union of Townswomen's Guilds, Kensington, London 1940; The Scottish Townswomen, Glasgow 1938.

The Needlework Development Scheme

Publications of the Needlework Development Scheme

The publications of the Needlework Development Scheme were central to its aims. The two bulletins, "And So to Sew" and "And So to Embroider" published three times a year, were issued free until 1958 until demand led to a charge being levied for orders of over 24 copies. At its height in the 1950s, the scheme spent the current equivalent (2003) of £1 million printing the bulletin and distributing it primarily to school girls as well as other interested parties. Other publications featured accounts of the Scheme's development along with images of selected needleworks or focused on particular themes within the collection, such as Swedish needlework.

The Needlework Development Scheme

Correspondence file 1

Includes correspondence received and sent relating to: the acquisition of textile specimens; J & P Coats Ltd regarding funding of the Scheme; financing the scheme and payment of needlework teachers; meetings concerning the Needlework Development in Scotland scheme between the Scottish Art colleges; minutes for meetings of the NDS permanent committee; draft statement of aims of the NDS and format of the scheme.

The Needlework Development Scheme

Correspondence file 2

Includes correspondence received and sent relating to: committee meetings; personnel; J & P Coats Ltd regarding finance; J & P Coats Ltd regarding the acquisition of foreign works; Edinburgh College of Art regarding marking and numbering of items within the collection; Minutes of the NDS permanent committee; Statements of expenditure on the collection; Embroidery exhibition of February 1935.

The Needlework Development Scheme

Correspondence file 3

Includes correspondence received and sent relating to: finishing of work, transport and expenses of institutions involved in the scheme; exhibitions, purchasing and work and rotation of works between locations; recruitment of judges for an embroidery exhibition to be held by the Handicraft section of the Scottish Women's Rural Institutes at which the NDS awarded a prize; minutes of NDS permanent committee; statements of expenditure, Nov 1935-Nov 1936.

The Needlework Development Scheme

Correspondence file 6

Statements of success of Needlework in Scotland scheme 1935-1941; minutes of NDS permanent committee 1939; correspondence between committee members rearding winding-up of the scheme 1939-1941; statements of NDS expenditure 1934-1938.

The Needlework Development Scheme

And So to Sew

Publication published by NDS on how to sew various textile activities.
Contains copies of Bulletins 1-6B, 8A, 9A, 13A-15A, 17A-28A. All comprise of 2 copies other than 8A, 13A, and 15A, which only contain one version.

The Needlework Development Scheme

Tudor Flower Motif

British formal flower motif outlined in chain-stitched metal thread, on linen. Blackwork fillings in silk in several patterns have become worn in places. The motif has been cut out of background and mounted on modern linen. About half the metal thread embroidery is modern restoration. Shows influence of formal Sanish design. Much of the outline is restoration and has been remounted. This work may have been carried out in J&P Coats studio. Another identical and two related motifs, donated to the NDS by John Jacoby are in the Embroiderers' Guild Collection (EG 206). Originally they may have been part of a cover for a long cushion.

*Not available / given

Stole

German. On white silk with woven spot design. Embroidered with silk, black cotton and metal threads in cross, four-sided, running, back, fly, satin stitches, couching and French knots. Shades of brown and oragne with naive figures and sacred emblems. The stylised figures and text are similar to those on the Hungertuch (Hunger cloth) Lenten cloth also made by the Munster school in the late 1920s. This was inspired by the 1623 Hungertuch Lenten hangings in Telgte, near Munster.

*Not available / given

Records and textiles of the Needlework Development Scheme

  • NDS
  • Collection
  • 16th century to late 20th century

The collection consists of the surviving papers of the Needlework Development Scheme and over 100 examples of needlework. Of these examples, 28 are from Great Britain and 54 are examples of non-British work including examples from Greece, India, Norway, Sweden, Italy, Switzerland, Turkey and Bosnia. Items include ecclesiatical, domestic, costume, clothing and modern embroideries, tea cosies, funeral pall, clothing, lace work, wall hangings, samplers, linen work and cushion covers.

The surviving papers include a complete inventory of 1012 items that were part of the Needlework Development Scheme prior to its dispersal in 1961. This provides information on the original numbering scheme used for the needlework examples and also provides information on the provenance of each item, although this is not necessarily the creator of the item but the person from whom the item was received, as well as a description of the item itself. There is an inventory of the parts of the collection received by the Glasgow School of Art, insurance details concerning the collection and the correspondence of the Needlework Development Scheme, 1931-1941.

This material may contain sensitive information about individuals that is protected by the Data Protection Act. Until this material has been checked for sensitive information, it will not be available for researchers. Once this Data Protection work is complete the collection will be open for access, however any sensitive information will be closed and inaccessible for 75 years from the date of creation.

The Needlework Development Scheme

Darned Net Mat

German. Circular table cover, embroidered in white thread on net in needle-run, darned, and cross-hatched stitches, design of fish and flowers. This is one of a set made for the first class saloon of the SS. Bremen and identical to one exhibited at the 'Modern Embroidery' exhibition, Victorian and Albert Museum 1932.

*Not available / given

Mat in 'Venetian' lace

Cypriot. A type of needlemade lace worked in varieties of buttonhole stitch which has been made since the Venetian occupation of Cyprus in the 15th and 16th centuries. This rather stiff lace, produced mainly for tourists, was derived from Italian reticella lace. Design of figures dancing to Pan's pipes.

*Not available / given

Belt with Purse and Pincushion

British. Plaited green silk belt with silver fastening. Purse and pincushion are tapestry woven in silks and metal thread, and are attached to belt with plaited cords. Purse has drawstring fastening finished with woven tassels made over wooden beads. Purse has floral design and pincushion features a small bird.

*Not available / given

Sleeve

British. Cotton with 'broderie anglaise' frills at cuff. Leaf design. This item was damaged in the fire in GSA's Mackintosh Building on 23rd May 2014. Textile conservation was completed in 2019.

*Not available / given

Apron

British. Floral design embroidered on green taffeta in silks and gold thread. Satin stitch and variety of fillings used. Background has shredded in places and has been backed on net.

*Not available / given

Chair seat

British. Jacobean design chain-stitch throughout, in coloured wools on linen. Extensive use of shading. Embroidery in good condition but background is worn and has been mounted on a backing.

*Not available / given

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