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Records and textiles of the Needlework Development Scheme *Not available / given Item
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Mat in 'Venetian' lace

Cypriot. A type of needlemade lace worked in varieties of buttonhole stitch which has been made since the Venetian occupation of Cyprus in the 15th and 16th centuries. This rather stiff lace, produced mainly for tourists, was derived from Italian reticella lace. Design of figures dancing to Pan's pipes.

*Not available / given

Hebedo Cloth

Danish. Traditional work on natural linen incorporating drawn thread work and embroidery in satin-stitch. Relies for its effect on the changes of texture of the embroidery . Design based on stylised flower and plant forms.

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Hanging Pieta

German. White lawn worked with white cotton shadow work and French knots. The quotation reads 'Dann sol ches ist ge schehen auf dass die schrifterfuellet wuerde' (then it came to pass, so that the word would be fulfilled). This work was inspired by the Hungertuch Lenten hangings which were a popular source at the Schule fur Handwerk and Kunstegewerbe. At a time when imagery was constrained such religious depictions were at odds with the political regime and that they are being used as oblique references to the artists' and students' political and social concerns.

*Not available / given

Stole

German. On white silk with woven spot design. Embroidered with silk, black cotton and metal threads in cross, four-sided, running, back, fly, satin stitches, couching and French knots. Shades of brown and oragne with naive figures and sacred emblems. The stylised figures and text are similar to those on the Hungertuch (Hunger cloth) Lenten cloth also made by the Munster school in the late 1920s. This was inspired by the 1623 Hungertuch Lenten hangings in Telgte, near Munster.

*Not available / given

Darned Net Mat

German. Circular table cover, embroidered in white thread on net in needle-run, darned, and cross-hatched stitches, design of fish and flowers. This is one of a set made for the first class saloon of the SS. Bremen and identical to one exhibited at the 'Modern Embroidery' exhibition, Victorian and Albert Museum 1932.

*Not available / given

Runner

Greek. Linen runner with typical bird motifs in satin-stitched coloured silks. The same silks are used to make knotted fringes. This item was damaged in the fire in GSA's Mackintosh Building on 23rd May 2014. Textile conservation was completed in 2019.

*Not available / given

Man's shirt

Hungarian. Traditional peasant work, linen with drawn thread work on sleeves within borders of black cross-stitch embroidery and sequins. A few of the sequins applied to the sleeves still remain. Acquired from the Isabella home industry, Budapest.

*Not available / given

Phulkari

Indian. Type of work known as 'Bagh'. Rust hand-woven cotton ground almost entirely covered with formal geometirc shapes. Worked with darning stitch. Rich border of gold silk embroidery at each end. Note purple stripe to spoil symmetry to avoid insulting God by attempting to produce perfect work. From Punjab.

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Panel

Italian. Worked on fine corded cream silk in metal threads and floss silk in graduations of tones of green and pink. Shows influence of Oriental design. Some areas have been unpicked and the background has shredded in places.

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Sleeve Band

Chinese. From a jacket. Yellow silk ground almost entirely covered with embroidered pattern inspired by waves and sea spray. Use of shading copied by European embroideries in the 18th century.

*Not available / given

Apron

Portuguese. Part of peasant costume. Closely woven in red wool on white warp. Geometric design in bright colours in loom embroidery - extra weft pulled up in loops on the surface Yellow braid waistband, and pink braid edges.

*Not available / given

Child's Dress

Yugoslavian. Sleeveless dress with side seams and hem decorated with red, blue and black embroidery. Tasselled braid belt. From Bosnia. This item was damaged in the fire in GSA's Mackintosh Building on 23rd May 2014. Textile conservation was completed in 2019.

*Not available / given

Tudor Flower Motif

British formal flower motif outlined in chain-stitched metal thread, on linen. Blackwork fillings in silk in several patterns have become worn in places. The motif has been cut out of background and mounted on modern linen. About half the metal thread embroidery is modern restoration. Shows influence of formal Sanish design. Much of the outline is restoration and has been remounted. This work may have been carried out in J&P Coats studio. Another identical and two related motifs, donated to the NDS by John Jacoby are in the Embroiderers' Guild Collection (EG 206). Originally they may have been part of a cover for a long cushion.

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Quilt

British. Exotic flower and bird motifs in bright colours chain stitched on linen. Several motifs recur in different colours. Influenced by imported painted cottons from Far East.

*Not available / given

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