Textiles

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Since its opening in 1845, The Glasgow School of Art has been connected to textile design and production.

During the 19th and early 20th centuries the School aimed to train local designers to produce patterns for the textile industry in Glasgow and the West of Scotland. In the 1890s, the School's embroidery department was established and soon became famous for the Glasgow Style pieces its staff and students produced (examples of such work are housed in the School's collections).

Jessie Newbery (1864-1948), the first head of this department, encouraged her students to study historical designs and textiles in order to understand different embroidery techniques and to use these items as a source of inspiration for the development of new original work. This teaching ethos continued to be used in the 20th century during which time the School also developed courses in textile printing, weave and knit.

A large number of the items in the School's collection are related to The Needlework Development Scheme (1934-1962). This scheme, sponsored by J & P Coats of Paisley, collected examples of embroidery from a variety of geographical and historical areas and made them available for use by educational institutions and embroidery groups. The scheme aimed to encouraging greater interest in needlework, and to improve the standard of embroidery techniques and designs. When the scheme ended, its collections were disseminated to a variety of organisations. The Glasgow School of Art received 125 items dating from 1652-1961 and originating from Britain, Europe and Asia.

Amongst other items of note in the School's collections are weave sample books from Donald Brothers Ltd, Dundee and examples of work by Kath Whyte (1909-1996), GSA's former Head of Embroidery, and her students.

Related publications:

Liz Arthur, Textile Treasures at the Glasgow School of Art;

Liz Arthur, The Unbroken Thread: A Century of Embroidery at Glasgow School of Art;

Thomasina Beck, Glasgow Girls: Women in Art and Design 1880-1920;

Kathleen Whyte, Design in Embroidery;

R.Oddy. Embroideries from Needlework development scheme;

J. Taylor, The Glasgow School of Embroidery in 'The Studio';

Needlework development scheme, Contemporary Embroideries;

Margaret Swanson, Needlecraft in School;

Margaret Swanson; Needle craft for Older Girls;

Margaret Swanson, Needle craft and Psychology;

Margaret Swanson and Ann Macbeth, Educational Needle craft.

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S2

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Textiles

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Textiles

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Textiles

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Examples of Mackintosh Fabric

  • DC 020
  • Collection
  • c1900-1986
  • Trimming of mauve linen, pre-1914
  • Original cover of Charles Rennie Mackintosh Willow Tea Rooms settle
  • 4 samples of horse hair fabric
  • ample of purple fabric used to re-upholster Charles Rennie Mackintosh yellow settle
  • Letter from GSA Curator regarding 2 of the fabric samples, dated January 1986
Trimming of mauve linen

Trimming of mauve linen

A fabric trimming from a cushion cover, embroidered before the First World War. The cover has pink roses and green foliage embroidered on authentic 'Mackintosh' mauve linen fabric.It is possible that both design and fabric were purchased from Brown and Beveridge, Bath Street, Glasgow.

*Not available / given

Papers of the Anderson family, students at The Glasgow School of Art, Scotland

  • DC 022
  • Collection
  • 1860-1969

The Anderson family archive includes material of 5 of its members, namely the sisters Violet Meikle (1873-?), Daisy Agnes McGlashan (1879-1968), Daisy's husband William Smith Anderson (1877-1929) and their two daughters Daisy M Anderson (1910-1996) and Agnes Violet Neish (nee Anderson) (c1912-2005).

The Anderson Family archive contains family papers, sketchbooks, photographs and letters from 1860 to 1969.

The archive contains a number of sketchbooks kept by family members. Those belonging to the women contain flower drawings and schemes for ornamentation whilst William Anderson's books reflect his life as a commercial traveller for an ironfounder's firm and contain scenes from London and elsewhere, as well as technical drawings and plans. As many of the members of Daisy Anderson's family attended the Glasgow School of Art, the collection throws light on the work of the School from the 1880s-1950s.

Additionally the collection includes correspondence, newscuttings and photographs. Please note that this material is not yet fully catalogued and therefore some items may not be accessible to researchers.

Some of this material was damaged in the fire in GSA's Mackintosh Building on 23rd May 2014, and has since undergone conservation.

Anderson, Agnes Violet

Papers of Kath Whyte, Head of Embroidery at Glasgow School of Art, Scotland

  • DC 029
  • Collection
  • c1909-1996

A collection of Kath Whyte's personal papers which comprises:

  • Family papers, press cuttings and photographs, c1909-1981
  • School certificates, c1922
  • Correspondence, 1927-1996
  • Early sketches and drawings, 1920s
  • ketchbooks, notebooks, photographs and correspondence from Gray's School of Art, c1922-1947
  • Personal correspondence, 1922-1996
  • National Identification Card, 1943
  • Travel diary, c1940s
  • Lecture notes, sketchbooks and notebooks, 1948-1974
  • Assorted textile samples, sketch books and notebooks, 1950s-1970s
  • Examples of weaving by Kath Whyte and her pupils, c1950s-1970s
  • Diaries 1974-1988 and miscellaneous books owned by Kath Whyte
  • Photographs (professional and personal), 1909-1996
  • MBE medal and associated correspondence and photograph
  • Extensive collection of undated slides
  • Exhibition catalogues
  • Textile and design pieces, c1930s-1970s

This material may contain sensitive information about individuals that is protected by the Data Protection Act. Until this material has been checked for sensitive information, it will not be available for researchers. Once this Data Protection work is complete the collection will be open for access, however any sensitive information will be closed and inaccessible for 75 years from the date of creation.

Whyte, Helen Kathleen R

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