Textiles

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Since its opening in 1845, The Glasgow School of Art has been connected to textile design and production.

During the 19th and early 20th centuries the School aimed to train local designers to produce patterns for the textile industry in Glasgow and the West of Scotland. In the 1890s, the School's embroidery department was established and soon became famous for the Glasgow Style pieces its staff and students produced (examples of such work are housed in the School's collections).

Jessie Newbery (1864-1948), the first head of this department, encouraged her students to study historical designs and textiles in order to understand different embroidery techniques and to use these items as a source of inspiration for the development of new original work. This teaching ethos continued to be used in the 20th century during which time the School also developed courses in textile printing, weave and knit.

A large number of the items in the School's collection are related to The Needlework Development Scheme (1934-1962). This scheme, sponsored by J & P Coats of Paisley, collected examples of embroidery from a variety of geographical and historical areas and made them available for use by educational institutions and embroidery groups. The scheme aimed to encouraging greater interest in needlework, and to improve the standard of embroidery techniques and designs. When the scheme ended, its collections were disseminated to a variety of organisations. The Glasgow School of Art received 125 items dating from 1652-1961 and originating from Britain, Europe and Asia.

Amongst other items of note in the School's collections are weave sample books from Donald Brothers Ltd, Dundee and examples of work by Kath Whyte (1909-1996), GSA's former Head of Embroidery, and her students.

Related publications:

Liz Arthur, Textile Treasures at the Glasgow School of Art;

Liz Arthur, The Unbroken Thread: A Century of Embroidery at Glasgow School of Art;

Thomasina Beck, Glasgow Girls: Women in Art and Design 1880-1920;

Kathleen Whyte, Design in Embroidery;

R.Oddy. Embroideries from Needlework development scheme;

J. Taylor, The Glasgow School of Embroidery in 'The Studio';

Needlework development scheme, Contemporary Embroideries;

Margaret Swanson, Needlecraft in School;

Margaret Swanson; Needle craft for Older Girls;

Margaret Swanson, Needle craft and Psychology;

Margaret Swanson and Ann Macbeth, Educational Needle craft.

Code

S2

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Textiles

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Textiles

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Textiles

40 Archival description results for Textiles

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Apron

British. Scallop-edged cream taffeta apron. Silk and metal threads. Symmetrical floral design incorporating metal thread areas padded with cord. Extensive use of pearl and sequins. Framed.

*Not available / given

Cushion

Cushion

Scottish. Commemorating the Festival of Britain. Design suggests a firework display. In white and coloured embroidery on blue background. Names of designer, Robert Stewart and embroiderer, Kathleen Whyte in small motif on the back.

Stewart, Robert

Georgian Waistcoat

English. Fine white corded silk waistcoat with floral border incorporating the rose, thistle and shamrock. Pockets have embroidered flaps. Part of the spotted background has been unpicked. Shows influence of Chinese embroideries. This item was damaged in the fire in GSA's Mackintosh Building on 23rd May 2014. Textile conservation was completed in 2019.

*Not available / given

Sleeve

Sleeve

British. Pierced 'broderie anglaise' design of circles and flowers on lower half of sleeve and cuff. This item was damaged in the fire in GSA's Mackintosh Building on 23rd May 2014. Textile conservation was completed in 2019.

*Not available / given

Tudor Flower Motif

British formal flower motif outlined in chain-stitched metal thread, on linen. Blackwork fillings in silk in several patterns have become worn in places. The motif has been cut out of background and mounted on modern linen. About half the metal thread embroidery is modern restoration. Shows influence of formal Sanish design. Much of the outline is restoration and has been remounted. This work may have been carried out in J&P Coats studio. Another identical and two related motifs, donated to the NDS by John Jacoby are in the Embroiderers' Guild Collection (EG 206). Originally they may have been part of a cover for a long cushion.

*Not available / given

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